Bull Island
The North Bull Island has evolved over the past 200 years and came about due to the works carried out in Dublin Bay during the 18th and 19th centuries. The original purpose of the works was to counter the constant silting up of the Liffey channel in the bay. The original South Bull Wall – known as “the piles” was begun in 1715 and completed in 1730. It was built by driving oak piles through to the boulder clay in the bay and was reinforced by kishes filled with gravel, and wattles. It was successful in providing shelter for the various anchorages in the estuary, and in preventing the drift of sand into the channel, but it was eventually breached by a storm when the timbers rotted due to severe tidal stress. In 1761 it was decided to replace the then rotten piles with a stone pier. Commencing at the seaward end, the present lighthouse at the Poolbeg was completed in 1768, but the south wall, built of massive granite blocks, did not reach the Pigeon House harbour until 1795.
The wall, although a great engineering feat for its time, did not drastically improve the access to Dublin Port itself. In 1786 an engineer named William Chapman proposed the building of the North Bull wall. In January of 1801 Captain William Bligh R.N, of Bounty fame, following a survey of Dublin Bay, presented the director general of the Ballast Board with a map on which the dry part of the North Bull was marked as a very small patch, it was immediately off-shore from the large 18th century mansion known as Baymount (Manresa House). The purpose of building the North Bull Wall was to increase the draught for shipping using Dublin Bay at the low water mark of spring tides and to thereby make the harbour more accessible for seafaring vessels.bull island_1589.jpg
The first Bull Bridge was built in the Autumn of 1819 to facilitate the building of the Bull Wall itself. Construction of this wall began in 1820 based on the proposal of George Halpin, the Ballast Board’s engineer and completed in 1825 at a total cost of £95,000. With the North and South walls completed and a natural tidal scour created, the depth of the water over the bar between the North Bull and Poolbeg lighthouses at low water of spring tides increased without dredging from 1.8 metres to 4.8 metres in 1873. As a result of the sand and silt not washing into the estuary and the harbour, this residue started to accumulate on the area known as the North Bull and the island started to grow. The Bull Wall and the growing beach area fast became an amenity for the citizens of Dublin, the advent of horse trams from the city centre to Dollymount in 1873 increased the attraction which was augmented by the electric tram to Howth in the late 19th Century. In 1880 an International Rifle Match was held at Dollymount between teams from Ireland and America, thousands of people gathered on the island to witness this unique event, the American team won the match. In 1889 The Royal Dublin Golf Club obtained permission from Colonel E. Vernon of Clontarf Castle and from Dublin Port and Docks Board to lay out a course and to erect a clubhouse on the North Bull Island. In 1906/7 the first bridge was renovated and again upgraded in 2008.
In 1912 the Dollymount Sea Scouts were formed with part of the old Coast Guard station at the start of the Bull Wall becoming their Crow’s Nest (Den).
On September 5th, 1914 following the outbreak of World War I, the entire island was commandeered by the British Army for military training. The Royal Dublin clubhouse was used as officer’s quarters and its course used for the purpose of a firing range and the training in trench warfare. Up to the 1980’s it was not unusual for golfers on the island to find spent bullets on the links
Near the end of the first World War three friends, Marmaduke Montgomery Devitt, Tussy Murray and Dudley Stuart who enjoyed sailing and fishing from a boat called “Idle Hours” in Dublin Bay, spent time moonlighting on The Royal Dublin golf links but were moved on by the British Army because of the danger of being hit by live rounds of ammunition. The three decided to start cutting out golf holes on the eastern end of the island with the old 2nd Par three now the 17th being the first hole to be built in a natural dune setting, the greens were made of ox blood and chimney soot. Some difficulty arose with The Royal Dublin Golf Club who had in May of 1904 been granted a lease for a period of 21 years by Lord Ardilaun, Sir Arthur Guinness the 3rd (d. 1915) who resided in the nearby St Annes Estate to John Lumsden, Founder of The Royal Dublin Golf Club, for exclusive rights of playing golf over the entire island.
Marmaduke Devitt and Tussy Murray were granted an audience with Lady Ardilaun, previously Lady Olivia Charlotte White, which was probably due to the fact that Marmaduke’s father Leopold Montgomery Devitt worked in St. Anne’s Estate. The two got their permission to play golf, form a club and agreed on the name St. Anne’s after the estate.
On the 1st of July 1921 Marmaduke Montgomery Devitt drove in as first Captain of what would later be described by many as “the best little nine hole links in the country” which prevailed until 1989 when the club became an eighteen hole course.
The Bull Bridge was not the only access to the island. At the Blackbanks end of the Howth Road there was a slipway which allowed horses and carts down into the lagoon. From the end of this slipway out towards the island a hard cart track extended for about one hundred and fifty yards to the channel at low tide. Once through the channel which was only ankle deep, there was hard sand on which horses and carts could go across over the sand dunes onto the North Bull beach to collect timber and coal. This fuel fell from steamers on their way into Dublin port and was washed ashore in abundance.
Since 1931 various plans were proposed for the development and urbanisation of the island. The first of these plans was known as “The Blue Lagoon Scheme” in which was proposed dams and sluices at the Bull Bridge and Sutton Strand end of the island, thereby forming a permanent lake.
In early May 1944, the Golf Clubs were informed that the Irish Tourist Board had taken control of the island and were preparing for its development as a tourist resort. The Royal Dublin Golf Club got notice to be ready to leave their clubhouse as the site happened to be within the area of a proposed amusements park, creating a Blackpool type of development.
In December 1945, maps of the island with the proposed plans were published showing among other things, the positions of a cinema, a dance hall and a restaurant near the Bull Wall.
The fate of the island with its wonderful beauty and wildlife appeared to be doomed, but thankfully concerned groups such as the Dublin Naturalists Field Club and the golf clubs who argued that the North Bull Island was already a recreational ground and a nature reserve, unique apart in its proximity to the city should not be turned into an artificial playground of doubtful utility.
Luckily for the island none of these schemes developed beyond the drawing board, thus preserving the island as a unique wildlife sanctuary and recreation area for the people of Dublin.
The construction of the causeway in 1962/64, midway along the island, allowed access to the eastern section of the island and beach. In 1986 The Interpretive and Visitor Centre was officially opened on the site of the old clubhouse of St. Anne’s Golf Club close to the causeway roundabout to provide information on the island’s flora, fauna and wildlife.
The great importance of the North Bull Island as a site of both national and international scientific interest indicates a major need for nature conservation. The island was declared a bird sanctuary under the Wild Bird Protection Act. 1930. In the 1960s it was declared a no-shooting area and this protection was continued under The Wildlife Act 1976.
In recognition of the great diversity of flora and fauna on the island, and its ecological richness, the North Bull Island was recognised in 1981 as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. In 1986 because of its international importance for Brent Geese, it was designated a “sister reserve” by the Canadian Wildlife Service and linked with Polar Bear Pass National Wildlife Area, Bathurst Island, North West Territories where Brent Geese fly to breed in Summer after wintering on the North Bull Island.
In May of 1995 twenty eight wild hares were released in an effort to save the island hare population, which had fallen from a couple of hundred to just four – as a result of illegal shooting, poaching and attacks by dogs. On the Bull Island hares could be viewed with ease, on the sand dunes, salt marsh and golf courses, where they had grown accustomed to humans.
From the small accumulation of silt and sand shown off Baymount on Captain Bligh’s map of 1801, the island in 2007 has grown to an area of over 350 hectares with a length of almost 5km long and an average width of 700m. The island continues to grow with the seaward dune system from the beach, the nose of the island at Sutton Creek increasing in size with the constant tidal movements carrying sand and silt to the shore.
This small island which has been born out of the successful endeavours to create a port for the City of Dublin has been described as a “gift from the sea”, the unexpected by-product of the building of the South Wall and the North Bull Wall, is there to be enjoyed, appreciated and protected by this and all future generations to come.
(Leo “George” Devitt
24th September 2008.)
The North Bull Island has evolved over the past 200 years and came about due to the works carried out in Dublin Bay during the 18th and 19th centuries. The original purpose of the works was to counter the constant silting up of the Liffey channel in the bay. The original South Bull Wall – known as “the piles” was begun in 1715 and completed in 1730. It was built by driving oak piles through to the boulder clay in the bay and was reinforced by kishes filled with gravel, and wattles. It was successful in providing shelter for the various anchorages in the estuary, and in preventing the drift of sand into the channel, but it was eventually breached by a storm when the timbers rotted due to severe tidal stress. In 1761 it was decided to replace the then rotten piles with a stone pier. Commencing at the seaward end, the present lighthouse at the Poolbeg was completed in 1768, but the south wall, built of massive granite blocks, did not reach the Pigeon House harbour until 1795.
The wall, although a great engineering feat for its time, did not drastically improve the access to Dublin Port itself. In 1786 an engineer named William Chapman proposed the building of the North Bull wall. In January of 1801 Captain William Bligh R.N, of Bounty fame, following a survey of Dublin Bay, presented the director general of the Ballast Board with a map on which the dry part of the North Bull was marked as a very small patch, it was immediately off-shore from the large 18th century mansion known as Baymount (Manresa House). The purpose of building the North Bull Wall was to increase the draught for shipping using Dublin Bay at the low water mark of spring tides and to thereby make the harbour more accessible for seafaring vessels.bull island_1589.jpg
The first Bull Bridge was built in the Autumn of 1819 to facilitate the building of the Bull Wall itself. Construction of this wall began in 1820 based on the proposal of George Halpin, the Ballast Board’s engineer and completed in 1825 at a total cost of £95,000. With the North and South walls completed and a natural tidal scour created, the depth of the water over the bar between the North Bull and Poolbeg lighthouses at low water of spring tides increased without dredging from 1.8 metres to 4.8 metres in 1873. As a result of the sand and silt not washing into the estuary and the harbour, this residue started to accumulate on the area known as the North Bull and the island started to grow. The Bull Wall and the growing beach area fast became an amenity for the citizens of Dublin, the advent of horse trams from the city centre to Dollymount in 1873 increased the attraction which was augmented by the electric tram to Howth in the late 19th Century. In 1880 an International Rifle Match was held at Dollymount between teams from Ireland and America, thousands of people gathered on the island to witness this unique event, the American team won the match. In 1889 The Royal Dublin Golf Club obtained permission from Colonel E. Vernon of Clontarf Castle and from Dublin Port and Docks Board to lay out a course and to erect a clubhouse on the North Bull Island. In 1906/7 the first bridge was renovated and again upgraded in 2008.
In 1912 the Dollymount Sea Scouts were formed with part of the old Coast Guard station at the start of the Bull Wall becoming their Crow’s Nest (Den).
On September 5th, 1914 following the outbreak of World War I, the entire island was commandeered by the British Army for military training. The Royal Dublin clubhouse was used as officer’s quarters and its course used for the purpose of a firing range and the training in trench warfare. Up to the 1980’s it was not unusual for golfers on the island to find spent bullets on the links
Near the end of the first World War three friends, Marmaduke Montgomery Devitt, Tussy Murray and Dudley Stuart who enjoyed sailing and fishing from a boat called “Idle Hours” in Dublin Bay, spent time moonlighting on The Royal Dublin golf links but were moved on by the British Army because of the danger of being hit by live rounds of ammunition. The three decided to start cutting out golf holes on the eastern end of the island with the old 2nd Par three now the 17th being the first hole to be built in a natural dune setting, the greens were made of ox blood and chimney soot. Some difficulty arose with The Royal Dublin Golf Club who had in May of 1904 been granted a lease for a period of 21 years by Lord Ardilaun, Sir Arthur Guinness the 3rd (d. 1915) who resided in the nearby St Annes Estate to John Lumsden, Founder of The Royal Dublin Golf Club, for exclusive rights of playing golf over the entire island.
Marmaduke Devitt and Tussy Murray were granted an audience with Lady Ardilaun, previously Lady Olivia Charlotte White, which was probably due to the fact that Marmaduke’s father Leopold Montgomery Devitt worked in St. Anne’s Estate. The two got their permission to play golf, form a club and agreed on the name St. Anne’s after the estate.
On the 1st of July 1921 Marmaduke Montgomery Devitt drove in as first Captain of what would later be described by many as “the best little nine hole links in the country” which prevailed until 1989 when the club became an eighteen hole course.
The Bull Bridge was not the only access to the island. At the Blackbanks end of the Howth Road there was a slipway which allowed horses and carts down into the lagoon. From the end of this slipway out towards the island a hard cart track extended for about one hundred and fifty yards to the channel at low tide. Once through the channel which was only ankle deep, there was hard sand on which horses and carts could go across over the sand dunes onto the North Bull beach to collect timber and coal. This fuel fell from steamers on their way into Dublin port and was washed ashore in abundance.
Since 1931 various plans were proposed for the development and urbanisation of the island. The first of these plans was known as “The Blue Lagoon Scheme” in which was proposed dams and sluices at the Bull Bridge and Sutton Strand end of the island, thereby forming a permanent lake.
In early May 1944, the Golf Clubs were informed that the Irish Tourist Board had taken control of the island and were preparing for its development as a tourist resort. The Royal Dublin Golf Club got notice to be ready to leave their clubhouse as the site happened to be within the area of a proposed amusements park, creating a Blackpool type of development.
In December 1945, maps of the island with the proposed plans were published showing among other things, the positions of a cinema, a dance hall and a restaurant near the Bull Wall.
The fate of the island with its wonderful beauty and wildlife appeared to be doomed, but thankfully concerned groups such as the Dublin Naturalists Field Club and the golf clubs who argued that the North Bull Island was already a recreational ground and a nature reserve, unique apart in its proximity to the city should not be turned into an artificial playground of doubtful utility.
Luckily for the island none of these schemes developed beyond the drawing board, thus preserving the island as a unique wildlife sanctuary and recreation area for the people of Dublin.
The construction of the causeway in 1962/64, midway along the island, allowed access to the eastern section of the island and beach. In 1986 The Interpretive and Visitor Centre was officially opened on the site of the old clubhouse of St. Anne’s Golf Club close to the causeway roundabout to provide information on the island’s flora, fauna and wildlife.
The great importance of the North Bull Island as a site of both national and international scientific interest indicates a major need for nature conservation. The island was declared a bird sanctuary under the Wild Bird Protection Act. 1930. In the 1960s it was declared a no-shooting area and this protection was continued under The Wildlife Act 1976.
In recognition of the great diversity of flora and fauna on the island, and its ecological richness, the North Bull Island was recognised in 1981 as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. In 1986 because of its international importance for Brent Geese, it was designated a “sister reserve” by the Canadian Wildlife Service and linked with Polar Bear Pass National Wildlife Area, Bathurst Island, North West Territories where Brent Geese fly to breed in Summer after wintering on the North Bull Island.
In May of 1995 twenty eight wild hares were released in an effort to save the island hare population, which had fallen from a couple of hundred to just four – as a result of illegal shooting, poaching and attacks by dogs. On the Bull Island hares could be viewed with ease, on the sand dunes, salt marsh and golf courses, where they had grown accustomed to humans.
From the small accumulation of silt and sand shown off Baymount on Captain Bligh’s map of 1801, the island in 2007 has grown to an area of over 350 hectares with a length of almost 5km long and an average width of 700m. The island continues to grow with the seaward dune system from the beach, the nose of the island at Sutton Creek increasing in size with the constant tidal movements carrying sand and silt to the shore.
This small island which has been born out of the successful endeavours to create a port for the City of Dublin has been described as a “gift from the sea”, the unexpected by-product of the building of the South Wall and the North Bull Wall, is there to be enjoyed, appreciated and protected by this and all future generations to come.
(Leo “George” Devitt
24th September 2008.)
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